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Crete, Greece: Return to Isla del ex Backpackers Gap Year
Of course, many of the long-haired passengers slept on the ferries cover only a ticket with a budget of a few drachma a day, now working as accountants, lawyers, journalists, doctors, even diplomats. Longing back, often with teenagers of their own, to the places they remember from their youth with the tastes and smells unique island is still fresh in his memory, even after 25 or 30 years.
What then can these travelers, wait? How does the island, the atmosphere has changed? Like Odysseus returning to Ithaca, will recognize the place that left many years ago?
A recent visitor, now a well-known journalist, was surprised to find high quality restaurants, accommodation suites and a café-bar culture in the town of Agios Nikolaos in eastern Crete. His memories of the city in the early 1970 streets were full of tourists from 1918 to 1930, a drag bar and cheap rooms study. "Desperate Youth even pay to sleep on the roof of a hotel in those days, only to be part of the "Ag Nik" scene for a week, "he said." The difference in the place is almost unbelievable. "Chic cafes have replaced inexpensive drink skinny latte and cappuccino fredo and hamburgers have given way to some of the best cuisines in the eastern Mediterranean. A local restaurateur, Manolis, described the tariff as "traditional Cretan dishes and modern twist, a mixture of mezes and nouvelle cuisine." The success of your operation, housed in a neo-classical shows that the clientele of visitors have changed dramatically and are demanding much more than simple pub food.
Elounda, only 10 km north of Agios Nikolaos, has recently renewed fame as the bestseller in the world "The Island" by Victoria Hislop. Despite new developments and luxury hotels on the coast opposite the island of Spinalonga, Venetian fortress and former leper colony last in Europe, the small village of Plaka still retains its charm. Fresh fish taverns now line the small area that was used to a most unfortunate time, provide lepers with food and medical supplies. The Elounda main complex, aptly named Schisma, is located around the old port where fishermen still mend their nets and evaluate the day's catch. Return Agios Nikolaos to the luxury hotel zone, which contains the Elounda Beach, Elounda Bay Elounda Mare, Elounda Peninsula, Elounda and Elounda Gulf of Porto. Some of the world's most exclusive hotels are located along this small stretch of coastline. Private yachts and helicopters on a regular basis to guests from the worlds of music and theater political leaders, business moguls, athletes and other celebrities.
The last recent interest in tourism and ecotourism has been a movement towards the inland areas of the island. The production of organic wines and, officially, the best olive oil in the world, Crete has benefited from investment European Union to develop an awareness of traditional crafts and products of the island. Towns like Archanes, just 20 minutes from the main airport in Heraklion, have invested heavily in the restoration of traditional houses and building a "green" tourism option, off the coast and beaches have always been the target of large operators. Small independent wineries are building a reputation among wine merchants worldwide while the largest cooperatives and producers are experimenting with new grape varieties to secure their future and expand into a wider market. New roads and linking the main east-west national highway south of the island, opening not only for export, but also provide access routes to the sea coast of Libya, with tamarisk-fringed beaches and coves. There you will find Matala, where hippies lived in caves dug into the rock on which he wrote the iconic Joni Mitchell "Carey."
Despite the changes, the concept of Crete "Filoxenia" is still there. Vistors are welcome and tablespoons candied fruit accompany strong black coffee and small glasses of raki, the local spirit distilled from grapes, when you enter a house. It is frowned upon, culture local, to offer to pay for the hospitality of this kind and any violation of the label is addressed firmly, usually the man of the house. They say you can never die hunger in Crete, because the people will not allow anyone to go hungry, preferring to share his own portion to see someone not to go. Perhaps there is a lesson to be learned for the more "advanced" cultures there? Older people of Crete have changed little over the past 50 years, but the younger generation, driven for access to television, magazines and a consumer led society are, in many respects, becoming assimilated into the Western view of the world. Most of adolescents now have new cars or motorcycles, where just 15 years ago, they were lucky if they were allowed to borrow from his father 20 years old pickup truck for a visit to the city. Brides now require newly built house equipped with double glazing, dishwasher, microwave and central heating where no contented with their mothers inherit the family home, with in-laws. Young people are better educated, many go to universities in other countries to complete their studies. It is difficult to persuade a 25 year old Doctor, who has graduated in London or New York, to return to a town where the average age of the population is over 80 and the salary is less than half that of other countries.
Tourism remains a significant proportion of revenues to the island. Some of the new generations are convincing their parents and grandparents to look into the future, although it is difficult to explain that the needs of tourists have changed since the early days on a bed was all that was required. With some 70% of inbound tourism generated through internet bookings, those who have embraced new technologies and adapt to changing patterns of tourism are reaping the rewards. It is an evolutionary process that leave some Cretans ago. hotel complexes all including trade are destroying the local taverns and bars which have traditionally paid its staff in committee. Fewer temporary staff arrive each year to fill positions unskilled, and with increasing fuel, insurance and social costs of taxes, small cafes and traditional pubs are finding it difficult to go. How much kafeneions longer the old style and souvlaki will survive is anyone's guess, but the resistance of the owners could only move forward.
So what these former backpackers find upon arrival in Crete? The returning visitor will certainly notice some dramatic changes, but many of the values and attitudes were so fundamental in another time still in the hearts of the people of Crete. They are proud, generous, stubborn and fiercely independent. They can be left-handed, condescending, kind, caring, tough, almost at the same time. That's what makes Crete. And are these people doing in Crete what it is. La Isla Grande.
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